Archive for April, 2011
A Comparison Of Honduras Mahogany With Other Varieties
Honduras mahogany is a popular mahogany variety in the South Americas. It is highly favored by many because of its workability and durability. Any furniture making industry seeks help from this plant species in order to make woodwork easier and more enticing for patrons. Because it belongs to the Swietenia macrophylla class it is also said to be a genuine variety of this tree. Proving that it really stands out among its peers it pays to compare and contrast it with others. All the facts will be seen in the succeeding paragraphs. African Mahogany. This variety belongs to the Khaya ivorensics. What sets them apart from Honduras mahogany is the fact that it is lighter in color than the other species. The color range starts from light pink to dark reddish brown shades. As to its durability Khaya is moderately resistant to decay and has no resistance to insects. It also has a texture that is somewhat coarse making it more difficult to machine than the Swietenia species. The end result is somewhat torn. It is not as stable as the variety from South America. Philippine Mahogany. This variety is classified under the Lauan Shorea. Although it is marketed as a mahogany species it actually comes from other wood varieties. When compared to Honduras mahogany it looks bland rather than natural. The color includes either dark brown or medium and deep red hues. Just like the Khaya species it is moderately resistant to decay and has no capacity to resist insect infestations. It has the tendency to become distorted during the process and is also coarse in texture. Generally it is not stable and can shrink through time. Sapele Entandrophragma cylindricum. The color of this mahogany variety is a combination of African and Philippine species of the plant. It basically provides a purplish cast to the surface of the material. In terms of durability it has the same traits as that of the first two classifications. Although it has a fine texture it is quite difficult to have a flat surface after processing. Comparing it to Honduras mahogany it looks torn and is also not as stable as the said category for the plant species. After learning about all these different classes of mahogany it is about time to see the strengths of Honduras mahogany. Since it can resist decaying and insect infestations it is said to be very durable. It also has a more refined texture making it easier to create patterns for furniture making and construction. Above all it is a species that is convenient to work with basically because it is easy to shape the material. Stability wise it is good for all woodwork processes like machining and planing. Getting to know Honduras mahogany from other varieties is a helpful tool in order to detect the material used in your furniture and other construction requirements. This type of mahogany is said to be the best as stated by facts behind its features. There is no doubt that the demand increases for the Honduran version. Take some time to research more facts on this tree that had become an industrial partner in several businesses for a lot of years now.
Honduras mahogany is a popular mahogany variety in the South Americas. It is highly favored by many because of its workability and durability. Any furniture making industry seeks help from this plant species in order to make woodwork easier and more enticing for patrons. Because it belongs to the Swietenia macrophylla class it is also said to be a genuine variety of this tree. Proving that it really stands out among its peers it pays to compare and contrast it with others. All the facts will be seen in the succeeding paragraphs.
African Mahogany. This variety belongs to the Khaya ivorensics. What sets them apart from Honduras mahogany is the fact that it is lighter in color than the other species. The color range starts from light pink to dark reddish brown shades. As to its durability Khaya is moderately resistant to decay and has no resistance to insects. It also has a texture that is somewhat coarse making it more difficult to machine than the Swietenia species. The end result is somewhat torn. It is not as stable as the variety from South America.
Philippine Mahogany. This variety is classified under the Lauan Shorea. Although it is marketed as a mahogany species it actually comes from other wood varieties. When compared to Honduras mahogany it looks bland rather than natural. The color includes either dark brown or medium and deep red hues. Just like the Khaya species it is moderately resistant to decay and has no capacity to resist insect infestations. It has the tendency to become distorted during the process and is also coarse in texture. Generally it is not stable and can shrink through time.
Sapele Entandrophragma cylindricum. The color of this mahogany variety is a combination of African and Philippine species of the plant. It basically provides a purplish cast to the surface of the material. In terms of durability it has the same traits as that of the first two classifications. Although it has a fine texture it is quite difficult to have a flat surface after processing. Comparing it to Honduras mahogany it looks torn and is also not as stable as the said category for the plant species.
After learning about all these different classes of mahogany it is about time to see the strengths of Honduras mahogany. Since it can resist decaying and insect infestations it is said to be very durable. It also has a more refined texture making it easier to create patterns for furniture making and construction. Above all it is a species that is convenient to work with basically because it is easy to shape the material. Stability wise it is good for all woodwork processes like machining and planing.
Getting to know Honduras mahogany from other varieties is a helpful tool in order to detect the material used in your furniture and other construction requirements. This type of mahogany is said to be the best as stated by facts behind its features. There is no doubt that the demand increases for the Honduran version. Take some time to research more facts on this tree that had become an industrial partner in several businesses for a lot of years now.
About the writer:nbsp;nbsp;If you want to prove the worth of Honduras mahogany as a species of mahogany find more facts through our site.
Achieving Mood Lighting And Saving Energy – Are Fluorescent Lights Dimmable?
Dimmer switches can give a more relaxed feel to your home and save you energy as well. But with the increasing prevalence of compact fluorescent lights or CFLs many people are wondering what options they have for using a dimmer with these lights or whether it saves more electricity to use a regular CFL or to use incandescent or halogen bulbs on a dimmer switch.
Let’s start by putting to rest some misconceptions people have over the relative energy use of fluorescent incandescent and halogen bulbs.
Many homeowners put in halogen bulbs starting in the 1990′s on the mistaken idea that these lights are more efficient than incandescent lights. In fact their energy efficiency is pretty much the same as that of incandescents. So don’t think you’re saving energy by using them.
CFLs meanwhile are very efficient it takes about one fourth as much electricity to light up a CFL as to light up an incandescent or halogen lamp with the same light output. They also happen to last about eight times longer than incandescent lights.
So if you are using a dimmer primarily to save power you might be better off just switching your incandescent or halogen lights to CFLs and keeping the dimmer switch on full or going back to a standard onoff switch. That will give you more light for less power.
If you want a more mellow lighting all the time one way is to put in light bulbs that aren’t as bright. Whether you go down from for example a 100 watt incandescent to a 60 watt incandescent bulb or down from a 100 watt incandescent bulb to an 18 watt CFL you’ll still get less light and you’ll use less electricity. Of course the CFL solution will save you much more electricity in the long run.
But chances are you want the best of both worlds: the low running cost and better durability of CFL bulbs with the flexibility to dim them when you don’t need their full light.
You may have heard that you cannot put a regular CFL on a regular dimmer switch. In fact you can but it is not recommended because it can really reduce the life of the bulb. There is no increased risk of explosion or fire from installing a regular CFL on a standard dimmer switch you’ll only increase the risk of shortened bulb life. And since the higher price of CFL bulbs is offset by the fact that they outlive incandescent bulbs by a ratio of 8 to 1 putting regular CFLs on a standard dimmer destroys that cost advantage.
If you choose to dim CFLs you have two real options: buy a special dimmer switch that is compatible with CFLs or buy dimmable CFLs that are designed to work with standard dimmers.
Both choices leave you with the energysaving advantages of CFLs as well as the ability to dim those CFLs. But for now at least dimmable CFLs seem like the more affordable option because fluorescentcompatible dimmer switches are prohibitively expensive while the price difference between standard and dimmable compact fluorescents is miniscule.
Let’s consider the total cost for both options for a fixture with three 60watt light bulbs. Let’s assume you already have a standard dimmer switch and regular incandescent light bulbs. If you want to upgrade to CFLs your choices are:
1. Installing three 13watt standard CFLs at 3 a piece and a 49 fluorescent dimmer switch. Total cost: 58.
2. Going for three 13watt dimmable CFLs at 3.50 a piece and use the existing dimmer. Total cost: 10.50!
As you can tell using an existing dimmer switch is a more affordable alternative. Since both options use the same amount of energy in terms of payback period the solution with dimmable compact fluorescent lights is definitely much shorter.
Even if you need to buy a dimmer switch because you don’t have one it still makes sense to go with a standard switch and dimmable CFLs. You can get a standard dimmer switch for under 10. Even a fashionable one for 25 is more affordable than a fluorescent dimmer at 49. And with the cost gap between standard and dimmable CFLs so small the only way a fluorescent dimmer switch will be cost competitive is if its price drops substantially which it probably will over the coming years.
If your only motive for using a dimmer switch with CFLs is to save money and you don’t already have a regular dimmer switch I would suggest you stay with basic CFLs and forego the dimmer switch. Use the money you save on the dimmer switch to buy more CFLs for other areas of your house. Dimmer switches resulted in major savings for incandescent or halogen fixtures because the bulbs were so wasteful. For example my rec room has six 50watt bulbs on a dimmer switch. By using the dimmer at about half power we use 150 watts instead of the full 300 watts. Assuming an hour on each day that would save 150 x 365 watts or 55 kilowatt hours a year.
But if we were to switch those halogen bulbs to 13watt dimmable CFLs we’d save 81 kilowatt hours a year at their full strength. By turning them down to half we’d only save an extra 13 kilowatt hours a year that’s about 1.30 worth of electricity. Not really enough to make it worth considering this alternative.
Consumer response to dimmable CFLs has been less than overwhelmingly positive. There were certainly some teething issues with these lights early burnout flashing light and loud buzzing noises. These problems have been pretty much resolved in the more recent dimmable compact fluorescents. But if there isn’t a strong motivation for you to dim your CFLs I would recommend sticking with standard compact fluorescents for a year until the market offers a wider range of choices for dimmable fluorescent lights. Who knows in a year or two fluorescent dimmer switches could be as cheap as standard dimmers.
About the writer: Robin Green owns GreenEnergyEfficientHomes.com a website that helps people save energy in their homes. Go to this website for help on cutting your energy use on heating cooling lighting and other household activities. For more on compact fluorescent bulbs see the dimmable compact fluorescent bulbs page and the CFL savings calculator.
A Buyers Guide To Cutlery
Before You Buy
Silver steel plate modern or traditional? It pays to think before you fork out quite literally. You can of course pick up perfectly useable cutlery cheaply and easily at most department stores and supermarkets. But if you feel it’s time to upgrade to something a little more luxurious then consider how much you would like to spend the type of design that appeals to you and finally how many place settings you are likely to need. Sets of cutlery can range from 10 to 10000 so make sure you fix your budget before you begin shopping. Bear in mind that if you choose a design that’s available in single pieces you can always add to your service bit by bit which can be a more affordable way to build your collection.
Materials: What to Choose
There are three basic options: stainless steel silver plate and sterling silver which is generally made to order. Each has its own benefits but costs vary greatly.
80 per cent of cutlery is 18/10 stainless steel an alloy of iron with chrome and nickel added to make it corrosion resistant. This combination makes it suitable for use in dishwashers so convenient for everyday use. Stainlesssteel cutlery generally comes in a wider range of designs than silverplated cutlery.
Silver doesn’t react with most foods and is resistant to staining and corrosion so it’s particularly suitable for cutlery. However because it is a soft metal it’s not suitable for knife blades which will be made out of stainless steel unless antique. Both sterling silver and plated cutlery will require polishing every so often.
Resin handles have replaced bone which are now illegal and these are dishwasher safe whereas bone handles can only be bought as secondhand pieces and should always be hand washed.
Which design should I go for?
The design you choose is of course largely based on your own style and taste but all the experts agree that touching and holding the cutlery is an absolute must. ‘Choosing cutlery is a very personal thing’ says Holly Verrill at David Mellor. ‘Most people like heavier cutlery but it’s all about personal preference.’ If you decide on a contemporary design remember that modern pieces should still be easy to use. ‘Our designers take home models to test them’ says Tony Miles at Richardson Sheffield. ‘The feel of the cutlery is allimportant it must be functional as well as stylish.’
Consider how well the design will stand the test of time as there’s no point splashing out if it’s going to look dated in a few years.
If a design is discontinued then it will be difficult to source extra items as replacements or accessories to build on your collection.
To avoid this choose a modern classic like David Mellor’s Pride range.
If you prefer a traditional pattern you can go for a newly manufactured service which will allow you to choose the quantity and types of pieces you want or a secondhand or antique set.
Traditional or ‘Parrish’ patterns as they are known include Rattail which dates from the 1700s Bead Old English Fiddle and Kings to name but a few and are often the types handed down over generations. These generic patterns have no patent therefore can be produced by any company and are still very popular today.
Buying Antique What to Look For
Secondhand items can be less expensive and better quality than new ones and often have an element of history too. ‘A fun way to build up a canteen is buying it piecemeal either in sets of six or by buying single pieces at a time. More common patterns can be picked up cheaply at carboot sales and antiques fairs’ says Gary Bottomley of silversmith company Reign Beau Ltd specialists in buying and selling antique silver. Try Portobello Market Alfie’s Antique Market or a specialist dealer for bigger sets.
Condition is probably the most important criterion when buying an old canteen. The tines on forks should be equal lengths and the spoons should retain their original shape and not have sharp tips.
Look out for crisp decoration on the more elaborate patterns eg Kings as this will make it more valuable.
Secondhand silverplated canteens are plentiful but may be damaged. Breathe on vulnerable areas eg the back of the bowls or tines to reveal any differing colour of the underlying metal.
How much cutlery should I buy?
‘The rise of the single household means that the amount of cutlery people buy is less determined by the number of people in the house and more by how many times the dishwasher is loaded before the clean stuff runs out’ explains Tony Miles at Richardson Sheffield. ‘People buy place settings by this factor as much as family size’. With this in mind think about how many place settings and what components you require. Do you entertain often or are your eating arrangements a more casual affair? Do you really need a full service or will it just end up collecting dust? Why waste valuable space on soup spoons if you never serve soup? However if you do lay a formal table then stocking up could be a good investment. Rachelle Blindt at John Lewis says ‘If you have people round for dinner on a regular basis buy two sets of knives and forks so you won’t have to wash up between courses. Similarly if you’re always losing teaspoons buy 12 instead of eight.’ For this reason designs that allow you to buy individual components are a good idea you can also replace the odd spoon or fork that will inevitably go astray.
Care and Cleaning
Washing by hand is by far the best way to clean all cutlery but very few people have the time or the patience for it. As a result most flatware including silver is now dishwasher safe but there are still a few rules to follow:
Avoid soaking your cutlery as mineral salts in the water can attack the surface of the metal.
Remove stainless steel from the dishwasher promptly as it is prone to corrosion if left in a moist atmosphere.
Avoid prolonged contact with very hot fat salt vinegar egg tomato sauce acidic fruits and wine as these can cause surface blemishes.
Stainless steel can’t rust but it can pick up marks from steel wool or nonstainlesssteel implements.
Never mix silverware with stainless steel in the wash as it can cause a chemical reaction and leave stains.
Never use silver polish on stainless steel.
After you have cleaned off silver polish wash the pieces in warm soapy water before using.
Keep silver and plated cutlery in an airtight container or in a special antitarnish roll when not in use.
Some areas of silver cutlery tarnish faster than the rest of the piece as they are in direct contact with food so mainly polish these bits.
About the writer: house to home is a great source of interior design ideas and a helpful resource for buying and creating looks for your home. Search by room or by project to find the style you like for your home